Sole Man
20/03/08 22:09 Filed in: Food &
Drink
Living in the Midlands
means that we don't have the same access to good
fishmongers that we had when we lived in de Shmoke.
If you like fish, the only way to buy it is from a
fishmonger. (I remember a cartoon, years ago, in The
Phoenix with two guys behind a fish stall. One says
to the other "Well, don't just stand there - mong,
for God's sake!")
I don't buy fish in supermarkets, as I find that it usually has at least a day more out of the sea than I would like. If fish isn't absolutely spanking fresh, it's not good.
These days, what we tend to do is to buy in bulk from a fishmonger, have it vacuum packed and then freeze it. Normally, we do this when we go to Cork, where there are several good fishmongers. The best known of them is Kay O'Connell's in the English Market, who have a magnificent display of fish at their stall. If we're in town and want some fish for dinner that night, we usually get it there.
However, if we're buying in bulk, we head for Carrigaline and stock up at Denis Good's. The main business here is fish processing and wholesale, but they have a retail outlet at the front of the building in the industrial estate on the Crosshaven Road. Our regular order is €100 worth of whatever is on offer on the day. Along with staples like salmon and cod, we include things like John Dory, ray, hake, turbot, scallops and lemon sole in the selection. As soon as we get back to my wife's folks' place, the lot goes in the freezer, and when we're going home, it goes in a coolbag with some freezer blocks.
Some purists will say that freezing ruins fish, and that it has to be eaten fresh. In an ideal world, I might agree, but freezing is a compromise I am willing to make, as the end result is far superior to what I have available to me otherwise.
The other consideration is how to cook it. I look on it two ways. If it's big and chunky like a fillet of cod or salmon, roast it. If its thin and flat like sole or plaice, then coat it in seasoned flour and fry it. Some people don't like fish because they think it's bland. Most fish needs something acidic to complement it and bring out the flavour. It can be something as simple as lemon juice, or maybe a salsa verde (lemon juice, capers, garlic and parsley). But best of the lot is a glass of crisp, dry white wine.
I don't buy fish in supermarkets, as I find that it usually has at least a day more out of the sea than I would like. If fish isn't absolutely spanking fresh, it's not good.
These days, what we tend to do is to buy in bulk from a fishmonger, have it vacuum packed and then freeze it. Normally, we do this when we go to Cork, where there are several good fishmongers. The best known of them is Kay O'Connell's in the English Market, who have a magnificent display of fish at their stall. If we're in town and want some fish for dinner that night, we usually get it there.
However, if we're buying in bulk, we head for Carrigaline and stock up at Denis Good's. The main business here is fish processing and wholesale, but they have a retail outlet at the front of the building in the industrial estate on the Crosshaven Road. Our regular order is €100 worth of whatever is on offer on the day. Along with staples like salmon and cod, we include things like John Dory, ray, hake, turbot, scallops and lemon sole in the selection. As soon as we get back to my wife's folks' place, the lot goes in the freezer, and when we're going home, it goes in a coolbag with some freezer blocks.
Some purists will say that freezing ruins fish, and that it has to be eaten fresh. In an ideal world, I might agree, but freezing is a compromise I am willing to make, as the end result is far superior to what I have available to me otherwise.
The other consideration is how to cook it. I look on it two ways. If it's big and chunky like a fillet of cod or salmon, roast it. If its thin and flat like sole or plaice, then coat it in seasoned flour and fry it. Some people don't like fish because they think it's bland. Most fish needs something acidic to complement it and bring out the flavour. It can be something as simple as lemon juice, or maybe a salsa verde (lemon juice, capers, garlic and parsley). But best of the lot is a glass of crisp, dry white wine.

